Saturday, June 13, 2009

Itako Ayame Festival

Hello Friendly Blog Followers!

Yesterday was the best day Chris and I have spent in Japan so far. It started with a pre-9am knock at the door from our internet company. The man fiddled with our telephone jack, then confirmed that the connection was indeed good to go. We still needed to wait for our modem to be mailed to us, but it was progress!!!

In the afternoon, we drove down to Itako, the somewhat larger city next to Namegata. I mean, we saw a jazz bar, so it must have a nightlife. [One of my principals (called Kocho Sensei), who taught English about 20 years ago, told me a few weeks ago about a special festival in his city. He had arranged a special outing with a few other ALTs who work in Kashima, the city east of Itako on the coast of Japan. He invited Chris and I along, and of course we couldn't turn it down.]

Anyway, after driving around for awhile trying to find the designated meeting spot, we found it, parked and met up with my Kocho Sensei. We followed him, barely (the Japanese walk very fast), into the Ayame Garden (Iris Garden). There were people everywhere looking at the flowers - apparently they only bloom in June, and Itako residents make the most of it! We wandered over little bridges, down narrow pathways, over to the bank of the river that runs next to the garden. His wife was waiting and handed us our boat tickets, then we quickly shook hands with the other ALT's and a few of the Japanese homeroom teachers they work with, then were ushered into a long-ish wooden boat. It fit about 10 people, plus a man standing in back dressed in some kind of traditional costume who was pushing us down the river with a long wooden pole.

This boat ride was so neat. It was sunny and warm; we kept floating under quaint little footbridges, and every time we passed another boat everyone in it would wave and say something in Japanese that must have meant "Enjoy your ride" or "Nice to see you smiling today". I'm just assuming this because everyone was so darn pleasant.

The ride lasted 30 or 40 minutes, then when we got back the Kocho Sensei led us on a walk through the garden. We took pictures, soaked in the culture a bit, and got to know the other ALTs. Afterwards, the Kocho Sensei invited us back to his house which was all of 5 minutes away. Apparently, working as a Kocho Sensei pays pretty well, because on top of owning some house along the river bank that he pointed out, he also owns a small building and lives on the top floor with his wife. There's a restaurant that rents out the first floor, which we learned makes for convenient deliveries. We walked in, took our shoes off (pointed towards the door, of course) and as we entered the main room, we saw a large raised floor surrounded by sliding screen doors, making a closed dining room of sorts. His wife opened the doors for us, and let me just say, the feast laid out was an awesome sight. I would have taken a picture if I had known them better, but it might have been a little awkward....Anyway, there were two huge platters of sushi (at least 7 or 8 kinds: fatty tuna, scallop, sea urchin, salmon roe, shrimp, etc), another two huge platters of tempura (chicken, prawns, scallops, etc), dishes of roast pork, etc. Then Mrs. Kocho Sensei began handing out the drinks. Beer, canned cocktail mixes (like juice and sake), expensive sake, etc. Later, some Japanese vodka, called Shochu http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shochu, was brought out - Chris really liked it. We all introduced ourselves in Japanese (the Kocho Sensei's wife is a 3rd grade teacher, and he used to be a teacher, so there's always a lesson going on), and got to know each other. We ate, talked, drank, then more of each, then took a break outside on the patio where a delicious fruit plate appeared. Then back inside for yet another treat: Sweet Mochi, with different fillings...mine had something caramel-like and some cream inside. Heaven, pure heaven.

Just before 8pm, the Kocho Sensei announced that it was time for Twilight Ayame - when all the lanterns are lit in the garden and on the bridges, and The Bride (apparently a young bride in Itako is selected every year for this festival) walks through the garden. We got there, and it was even more beautiful than in the afternoon. It was a bit chilly and mist was spreading. The lanterns glowed, parents walked around holding their bundled up toddlers, and there were about 200 camera tripods set up along the river and dotted throughout the garden. What felt like ages later, the Bride finally appeared. We learned that she was actually an American ALT, but she really was getting married, so qualified somehow to take part. She was wearing a really beautiful white, old fashioned wedding kimono, with some huge head/hairpiece (she definitely didn't have long black hair like a Japanese bride would have, so the wig was important, I guess). She wore the traditional slippers with wooden blocks that you walk on. She was presented to everyone, then began the slow procession through the garden to wear a wooden boat was waiting for her. Everyone took a million pictures. Finally, she got into the boat, supposedly surrounded by many jugs of expensive sake, and then off she went to meet her groom (as legend goes).

This was all pretty amazing to watch and be a part of. Chris and I kept turning to each other as if to say, "Are we really doing this? This is fantastic!" It was a day we won't soon forget.

Hope you enjoy these pictures,

Tessa































PS: We got out internet stuff in the mail this morning, and I'm posting from our apartment!!! I even did a Skype webcam call with my brother! Posts should be a little more frequent now.

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